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Best face painting kits 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated October 1, 2019
Best face painting kits of 2018
The rating is based on multiple factors: The 3 metrics ‐ Design, Materials, Performance, and other indicators such as: Popularity, Opinions, Brand, Reputation and more. There are dozens of choices for an face painting kits these days. These are composed of modern styling with modern technology to match it. Here are some good examples.
I make the search easier for you, by reviewing the best face painting kits on the market. The best face painting kits will make your fairytale dreams come true!
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
№1 – Snazaroo Face Paint
Why did this face painting kits win the first place?
The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product.
№2 – Award Winning Face Paints | Professional 12 Color Mega Palette Face Painting Kits for Kids | Best Cosplay Paint Kit | 3 Brushes Glitter 30 Stencils Sturdy Case | Fda Approved Non Toxic | Online Guide
Why did this face painting kits come in second place?
I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice.
Why did this face painting kits take third place?
It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new.
face painting kits Buyer’s Guide
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FAS Professional Face and Body Paint is designed for face, hair and body painting, dries quickly and stays on for hours.
Best applied directly from the jar by brush but can also be applied with fingers, cotton swabs or by sponge. Dries to a matt finish that is flexible on the skin. Colours are mixable allowing you to mix any colour you like. All standard colours are made with quality cosmetic pigments, non-toxic and are designed for safe use on skin.
FAS Professional Face and Body Paint can be diluted with water if desired to assist with brushing, detailed work and air brushing.
FAS Face Paint is non-toxic and no preparation is needed for the skin.
You can paint directly from the jar or dilute with water if required.
Always start with a clean dry face. Clean your brush/sponge between colours or have one for each colour. Change your brush cleaning water regularly. For best results brush paint on in thin coatings, this will last longer and eliminate any cracking.
Sponges are ideal for applying your base coat or large areas of one colour. Cotton buds or swabs are a great way to apply colours and are easy to handle. Use one per colour as they do not rinse out very well.
They all light up under UV light.
How to select a good quality uv face and body paint. Most uv face paints for sale in Australia are made in china and sold as cheap Chinese brands or made in china and packaged in Australia. It all gets back to you get what you pay for. In places like china they do not have the same manufacturing requirements and standards as we have here in Australia. In Australia there is only a few companies that manufacture these uv paints. Most uv paints for sale in Australia are sold as hobby paints or kid’s paints. These were never designed to be used as UV paints. They where designed to look fluro. These paints may be cheap and nasty. They crack like mud when dry, and have a funny smell about them.
I don’t know about you but I would not like to be walking around with a musky smell hanging around me. A good uv face and body paint should be made with a clear based or a white base that dries clear so that when exposed to uv black lights the paint can illuminate all thru each of the layers of the uv face and body paint. As far as we know we are the only supplier in Australia to offer a uv face and body paint that is made with a clear paint base. Neon – Fluro – Fluro Face and Body exposed to a UV Black Light.
Some UV reactive Paint colours work better than others when exposed to UV Black Lights. Yellow UV Glow Face And Body paint has the most intense look. Orange/Red is also highly visual. Until now UV Blue and UV Violet had very bad results (colour intensity) when near UV Black Lights. This is because most UV Paints were developed to be fluro coloured in daylight and not made to Glow – Light up under UV Black lights. Even our UV Blue and violets were not great under UV Black Lights. We realised this problem and have spent many hours perfecting the performance of these two colours. As of July 201our Blue and violet UV Face and body paints work very well near UV Black Lights, and we are proud to show the results. Notice how bright the UV Glow Blue Face and Body Paint is on the Right arm of this night club Patron. Choosing The Best performing And Safest UV Face And Body paints. When choosing a UV face and body paint, it is highly reccomended that you read the ingredients used, if provided on the jar.
Calcuim Carbonate. If the UV face and Body paint contains Calcuim Carbonate, the paint will give inferior results as Calcuim Carbonate is white in colour, and is used in paint as a cheap filler to minimize costs at the expense of UV reactivity to UV Black light. It would be fair to assume these paints that use it, were never manufactured to be UV reactive. Any UV reactive face and body paint that contains a filler may also crack when dry due the the infexible nature of the filler.
Urea and Diazolidinyl urea. Urea is animal urine, and is used in gardens to supply nitrogen to the soil. Diazolidinyl urea is a artificial urine and is used in some face and body paints and cosmetics to help preserve them. I find this disguesting.
The Snazaroo Halloween Face Paint Kit includes various colours and comes with colour paint palette, brush and application sponge that makes it convenient to use. This paint is easily removable with soap and water. This kit is available in various themes like boy, girl and Halloween.
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Face painting stalls are a staple at most school and community fundraisers, and while it may seem to be a simple setup, there are several things to consider regarding how to run a face painting stall, some of which may not occur to you beforehand. From water-jars to preparatory test painting sessions, we’ve compiled information on everything you might want to consider.
If this is your first attempt at running a face-painting stall, you may find it useful to start your planning at the designs you are going to offer. This way you can ensure you have exactly the right paints and brushes you require for each design.
There are plenty of books and websites with designs and guides on how to create them. You should decide on a set number of designs that you are willing to offer on the day. If you’re comfortable copying designs with no preparation, you may feel able to offer a wider range. If you are a less experienced painter and needed preparation for each design first, it might be best to stick to perhaps ten designs overall.
Classic designs you might want to include
Animals – tigers, lions and cats always go down well and can be relatively easy to paint.
Characters – popular characters from kids media such as Barbie, He-Man may be in demand.
Themed – if your event has a certain theme, you could come up with some designs catered for that. If it’s a school fete for example and their children are divided into school houses, you could have a design for each.
Symbols and smaller designs – for those that don’t want a full-face and would prefer either something small on their cheek or arm, you could offer a number of smaller designs or logos. Harry Potter’s scar, or the Thundercats logo, for instance. You can charge a third or half price for smaller designs.
Abstract patterns – not every design has to be related to something, you may wish to simply play with shapes and colours for some designs, offering flashes or swirling patterns that fit with the shape of people’s faces.
Along with all the following, you might find it useful to arrange for a box with a handle to put all your loose equipment in, especially if your face painting stall is some distance from car-parking areas.
Water – find out how accessible water will be where the event is, because if you are in the middle of a field with no tap you’ll need to bring bottles of tap water with you.
Bucket – for tipping dirty water into, as you may be some distance from a drain or bathrooms.
Tissues – for cleaning spills, dabbing paint from faces and cleaning paint brushes.
Sponges – these can come in very handy for applying larger patches of colour, and larger sponges can be cut into smaller pieces to go further. You can buy small sponges which are specifically for face painting.
Mirror – so that the child can see their face when you’re finished painting. You might want to set a bigger one at the side of the stand, so they can continue to admire your work while you get started on the next face.
Chairs – you need to decide whether you want to stand or sit while you paint. If you want to sit, you’ll need two chairs of similar height. If you wish to stand, you could use a high directors chair for the children to sit on, to bring them up to your height and avoiding the need to stoop.
Table – for setting brushes, paints and jars on, and laying out potential designs for people to browse.
You will need to consider how you present designs to people, for them to choose what they want. Ideally you will have photos to demonstrate the designs. If you have painted faces before, or tried some demos before the event, you may be able to use your own photos (always get permission from the parent or guardian if you are using photographs of children’s painted faces; get a signed agreement if possible). If not, you could use a book or create a pamphlet using photos from books or the internet. It might be wise to credit your sources and do not try to carry these photos off as your own work.
It’s a great idea to pin up designs on a board at your face painting stall, with more popular designs printed bigger, to catch people’s eye as they walk past. Display the price nice and visibly too.
You’ll need to give some thought to how you might organise a queue, although kids are so restless that they will normally just come for a face-painting when they see you are free. Or, if the organisers of the event are willing to let you use their tannoy services, you could issue numbered tickets as a virtual queue and then shout out ticket numbers over the tannoy. This way no-one has to queue and you won’t feel under pressure to rush while painting faces.
If you’ve not done face-painting before, you would be wise to try a demo session some time before the event. This will give you a chance to find out what kind of designs you feel you are able to offer, what kind of brushes and paints you might need, and allows you to prepare in advance for anything unexpected that comes up.
If you’re particularly nervous, why not ask some adults to be your paintees for the first couple of tries? They won’t fidget as much as children and can make it a bit more fun to try a load of designs in one go.
You could advertise a reduced-cost patch/repair service for kids that smudge parts of their design during the day. The children will appreciate having the design last, and you can make some extra money later on during the event.
We would suggest a price of £1.50 per face for full-face designs, and 90p for smaller symbols or logos.
With a little preparation, perhaps one test session and some planning, your face-painting stand could provide entertainment and a good profit for your event. If your event is going to be busy, rope in another assistant to paint faces and, if you plan to paint-faces again in the future, think about taking photos of your work this time around. You don’t need to consider everything we have written about here, but take into account the essentials and you’ll have the information you need to make a fun and profitable stand to complement your fundraising event.
Charnwood Fundraising offers a range of Snazaroo face painting products to help you create great designs. To enhance your designs PDK offers books and guides showing you how to create a range of fun and colourful face-painting designs, as well as sponges, brushes, starter kits, glitter gels and other accessories that will bring a bit of extra enjoyment to your face painting designs.
All Snazaroo paints and gels are easy to apply and, because they are water based, they are easy to remove with soap and water. They are non-toxic, are not tested on animals are are fully compliant with EU toy and cosmetic regulations.
I love glitter. Without it the design misses that sparkling, magical touch that kids and adults like so much. The only glitter used for face painting must be made of vinyl or polyester. Do not use aluminum or any kind of metallic glitter which can harm the eyes. Cosmetic glitter is the best. If you are not sure if the glitter you are using now is safe, try placing a small amount in your index finger and rubbing it against your thumb. If it feels soft to the touch is okay to use, it feels gritty is not.
Glitter also comes in Gel Form. I love the Liquid Bling by Amerikan Body Art for outlining my designs. The trick to using it is to practice applying it by making very thin lines.
It is important not to cover your design with too much glitter as glitter looks better on a design when thoughtful consideration is given as to where is best suited for each a particular design. Some painters use their fingers to apply it, some prefer the handle of their brushes or a sponge or poof bottle.
Like your brush, a good quality sponge will give you the best results. Try a variety of sponges to find out which density and shape are right for you. Avoid sponges such as the ones made of latex that keep the all the makeup inside of it. The most popular sponges come in a round shape that can be cut in half or some come pre cut. The petal shaped sponges are great for making wings and large flowers. Don’t be afraid to cut them and experiment with elastics to create deferent shapes. Consider carrying a variety of sponges in your kit to create different effects such as the stipple sponge which is great for beards and wounds.
Handles are long or short, wood or plastic. Long-handled brushes are classic and allow you to take a farther view to keep your composition in perspective. When you hold your brush toward the end of a long handle, it touches the canvas in a more sensitive way, creating a more lyrical painting. Think of your brush as an extension of your arm and fingertips rather than a writing utensil.
Sable brushes are soft and can be made from actual weasel hair (yep, sables are a kind of weasel), squirrel, rabbit or synthetic fibers. These soft brushes are perfect for finer details and smoother blending. Do not fear the synthetic brush — many newer ones are excellent.
Oil paint brush shapes
This is like a flat but with rounded sides, so it creates a softer edge and blends better than a flat. My first favorite brushes were Robert Simmons Titanium filberts because they had the coverage, control and blend-ability I was looking for.
How to Choose a Good Paint Brush
When buying brushes for acrylic painting, you can get both the stiff bristle brushes used by oil painters and synthetic brushes made for smooth watercolor painting. It all depends on the effect you want to obtain with your brushwork.
Stiffer brushes will leave visible marks on the painting, with more textural results. Softer brushes will give you smoother brushstrokes, with more blending.
For oils you need thicker bristles to move the dense and heavy paint around. For watercolors you need a softer brush because the medium is very fluid. Acrylic paints are softer than oils but thicker than watercolors, so your brushes can be somewhere in the middle.
Expensive Sable Brushes Are too Fancy for Acrylics
Even though natural bristle brushes created for oil paint can be used with acrylic paint, you may want to avoid expensive sable brushes.
When painting with acrylics you need to keep your brushes wet or immersed in water for a long time, so that the paint does not dry on the brush, and this excessive moisture can ruin the natural fibers quickly.
Bristles or Hairs
The part of the brush that holds and applies the paint. They can be natural or synthetic. Good quality brushes have firmly held bristles. It’s important that they don’t fall out while you are painting, for aesthetic reasons and because you may create messes on your painting when you try to remove them.
Usually made from metal, it connects the handle to the hairs, and keeps the bristles in shape. A good ferrule does not rust or come loose.
Paint Brush Sizes
The size of a brush is indicated by a number on the handle, and it refers to how thick the brush is at the heel, where the ferrule meets the hairs. Sizes vary from 000, 00, 0, 1, 2, etc.
Different manufacturers have different sizes for the same number, so if you buy supplies online, always refer to the measurement of the brush, not just the size number, especially if you are not familiar with the manufacturer.
How to read manufacturer measurements
Diameter: distance across a round ferrule at the point where the ferrule ends and the hair begins.
Width: distance across a flat ferrule at the exact point where the ferrule ends and the hair begins.
The brush stroke will vary depending on how you hold your brushes too. Holding your brush close to the ferrule gives you most control, great for painting details; holding near the end gives you lose strokes.
When Choosing Brushes You Should Consider
Shape – each shape delivers different stroke styles, and a different effect. Learning which shape to use to get the wanted effect is very important, and requires some experimenting. Have fun with it.
Material – Nylon brushes are best to lay flat paint areas, while natural bristles give a more uneven texture.
Paint Brush Sets
Brushes can be very expensive. To save some money, you may purchase a paint brush set.
Brush sets come conveniently assorted in sizes and shapes. Many sets are a lower quality, but they can still be a great choice for beginner painters, and allow you to get used to the different types and sizes of brushes without investing a lot of money into it.
Once you know what type of brush you like to work with, you can expand your brush collection and invest in higher quality, more expensive brushes of your choice.
Watercolour brushes are either natural (often sable, squirrel or goat) or synthetic, which are generally cheaper but do not last as long. Natural brushes are often preferred because they retain their shape longer, and can also hold more water, allowing for a softer result with the paint. A good idea is to buy one or two natural brushes for softer areas and detailing, and a few synthetic brushes for dragging paint over the paper surface for large areas of colour.
For acrylics, it is actually better to pick synthetic brushes. They stay stiffer than natural brushes when wet, which is useful for detail and depth in your painting. Another reason for choosing synthetic is that the chemicals in acrylic paint can actually damage natural brushes over time. It’s best to pick a brush with bristles that are between the softness of a watercolour brush and the coarseness of an oil paint brush.
Brushes for oil paints tend to be quite stiff bristle, usually hog, though you can use synthetic fibres or even a mixture of the two! Another factor to bear in mind is how you’ll be painting. Whereas smaller watercolours are often painted while sitting down, acrylic and oil paints are often used while standing, so make sure you choose brushes with a long handle, especially if you plan to work on large-scale paintings. For detailed work, you will want to be closer to the canvas, so it is a good idea to have a short-handled sable brush in your armoury too.
Fun fact: A ‘sable brush’ is a brush where the bristles are made from the tail hair of a certain species of weasel, not a sable. The finest brushes are made with hair of the male, but most are a mixture of female and male hair.
With a round or pointed tip, these brushes are especially good for watercolours and acrylics. They are versatile and can be used both for detailed work and for controlled washes as you can use the tip for fine lines or press gently to make a fatter line.
Made from medium-long hairs and with a distinctive square end, these brushes are great for bold strokes, filling wide spaces quite quickly and, in the case of oils and acrylics, for impasto, Vincent van Gogh’s favoured technique of applying paint very thickly.
Shorter and squatter than the flat brush, with rounded edges at the tip, these brushes are good for working close to the surface with thick, heavy colour, so they are used mostly for acrylics and oil paints.
Like the name suggests, a fan brush creates a fan shape and can be useful especially when painting foliage, like leaves on a tree. They can also be useful for blending the edges where colour meets, if you hold the brush very lightly and drag it back and forth across the paint.
The angled tip can be used for covering large areas of canvas, and the tip can be used for very detailed work. You can also pull the brush lengthways for a thin line, or vertically for a thick line.
With watercolours, mop brushes can be useful for covering paper with water before applying paint. They are very soft and can carry a large amount of water (like a mop!). They are also useful for applying paint on a large scale, so can be used for acrylics and oil paints too.
Rigger brushes are pointed and have a very long tip, which means they hold a lot of paint and are ideal for continuous fine lines. They are perfect for painting branches on trees, grasses, posts, and boat masts, or anything else that requires a long, thin line.
There are two main sizes to consider when mounting nibs into holders: the smaller mapping (maru) size and the regular or comic size. Mapping nibs feature a small circular base, around mm in diameter, whereas regular nibs have a curved base that typically fit in nib holders of roughly mm in diameter. Some nib holders can accommodate both sizes, but dedicated nib holders are more commonly used. Japanese and Western mapping nibs are different in size, so keep that in mind when choosing a nib holder for your mapping nib. Crow or hawk quill nibs feature a similar shape to the mapping nib, but may vary in size.
Nib Holder Characteristics
The two main types of nib holders are straight and oblique nib holders.
Straight nib holders feature different shapes and diameters across brands. Some are wider in the grip area for a better grip, and a few even include a rubber grip for added comfort. There are longer nib holders that are designed to mimic paintbrushes, while others are curved to fit better in the hand.
Ink and Comic Drawings
Dip pens are regularly used by comic and manga artists to get more line variation and add expression to their drawings. Nibs are easily cleaned and switched out, allowing artists to have a wide variety of tools at their disposal.
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Different Sizes and Shapes
Linear: fine details and lines, delicate areas, spotting and retouching.Flat: bold strokes, washes, filling wide spaces, impasto, for fine lines, straight edges and stripes.
Beginners Essential Watercolor Brushes Sets
Your decision to start learning to paint with watercolors has turned into quite a project. You have lots of excitement about the venture and you have a long list of supplies that you must buy. Among the most important supplies are paints and brushes.
Since you are just starting out you don’t have to buy every single paintbrush there is. You do want to have a good assortment of brushes so you can learn as many techniques as possible and so that you have a wide array of brushes ready in case your inspiration to paint a portrait turns into a still life instead.
The basic brushes you should get can be made of natural bristles or synthetic ones. That choice is up to you. If you are not sure that you are going to stick with painting for long, you might invest in synthetics since they are the least expensive of the two. If you are going all-out on your supply list, you can invest in sable brushes which are the most expensive, high-quality natural bristle brushes available.
Begin With Synthetic Paintbrushes
Before you buy your paintbrushes, you can consult with your art teacher or instructor for advice on exactly what to get if you only want to get the bare minimum. You will generally want to have one round brushes, an angled flat brush, a large flat brush, one or two Filberts and a fan brush. Fan brushes are used later on in lessons as there is a specific technique you will learn before you master its use, but you can have one on hand just to be ready.
When you being using masking fluid you also want to have a special brush to apply it to your canvas. This can be an old brush or you can buy a special silicone brush which is made just for applying masking fluid.
If you make a mistake during your watercolor lessons – and even the masters make them from time to time – you may also want to have an extra brush for removing those mistakes. You can either find another old, stiff brush for this purpose. Or, you could buy an inexpensive round brush and cut the bristles down to help make them as stiff as possible.
When to Prime
Every unfinished surface—including wood, drywall, metal, and concrete—should be primed before painting. While it can be tempting to skip this step, the results are almost always disappointing. Paint applied to unprimed surfaces tends to peel, crack, and chalk more than paint applied to properly primed surfaces.
While it used to be necessary to apply oil-based primers over oil-based paint and latex primers over latex paints, many primers today allow you to switch between them as long as you prepare the surface properly. When painting over interior oil-based woodwork with latex, be sure to sand or degloss the surface first, then paint with a bonding primer before topcoating with latex.
At first glance applying primer may seem like an unnecessary expense, but it actually saves money as well as time. A good coat of primer improves paint’s hide, or ability to cover, reducing the number of coats that are necessary to achieve a smooth finish. Primers can be tinted to match the paint color. Tinting improves the primer’s hide and smoothes the transition between primer and topcoat.
These slow drying primers release volatile organic compounds in the air and require mineral spirits for cleanup and thinning. They produce a very smooth finish that does the best job of filling pores in bare wood while not raising the grain. Oil primers also provide a good barrier to keep tannins from certain woods from bleeding through.
These fast drying, water-soluble primers have come along way in recent years and are now available in low and no-VOC formulas. Latex primers are not as brittle as their oil or shellac-based cousins and provide a more flexible finish that is resistant to cracking. This makes them suitable for priming bare softwoods, though test them first to see if they raise the grain or allow resin to bleed through.
Latex primers are the best choice for unfinished drywall, since they act to even out the texture and sheen between the wallboard and joint compound. They also allow water vapor to pass through, which can make them less likely to peel.
Rashes and Allergic reactions
No manufacturer of even the most expensive makeups or face paints can guarantee no allergic reactions. However the research and development of products costs money, that the cheap brands just don’t bother to spend. In recent years some of the cheapest brands that have been recalled have had extremely high reaction rates some even as high as 30%. They are normally the cheap mass produced brands often from China.
Top brands with the highest safety ratings (like Snazaroo) however have a one in in 10,000,000 ratio, and even in these cases it is hard to prove that it was in fact the product and not some external factor like a soap or wet wipe, that was the real cause.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your face painting kits wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of face painting kits
- №1 — Snazaroo Face Paint
- №2 — Award Winning Face Paints | Professional 12 Color Mega Palette Face Painting Kits for Kids | Best Cosplay Paint Kit | 3 Brushes Glitter 30 Stencils Sturdy Case | Fda Approved Non Toxic | Online Guide
- №3 — Snazaroo Face Paint Palette