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Best rust remover 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated June 1, 2019
Best rust remover of 2018
Now, let’s get to the gist of the matter: which are the best rust remover for the money? Here, I will review 3 of the best rust remover of 2018, and we will also discuss the things to consider when looking to purchase one. I hope you will make an informed decision after going through each of them. If you’re scouring the market for the best rust remover, you’d better have the right info before spending your money. I am going to specify each good-to-buy feature as much as possible for your references.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
Why did this rust remover win the first place?
The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I was completely satisfied with the price. Its counterparts in this price range are way worse.
Why did this rust remover come in second place?
I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed.
Why did this rust remover take third place?
It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. I hope that the good reputation of the manufacturer will guarantee a long-term work. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new.
rust remover Buyer’s Guide
If you end up buying a used car with rust problems — or if your own car has issues — don’t get too worried right away. Small rust issues can usually be addressed, provided that you’ve caught them before they’ve spread. While we generally suggest consulting a professional about these issues, you can usually remove rust spots by sanding them away so they don’t become worse and create further problems with your car.
How Corrosion Is Formed
Corrosion involves anodes, cathodes, and electrolytes — scientifically speaking. The process of corrosion is similar to the process of the electrochemical cell. In layman’s terms, corrosion is the breaking down of materials as a result of a chemical reaction. In other words, it’s a process of metal oxidation.
Iron is the main material of a vehicle, and can be oxidized in the presence of water and oxygen to form iron oxide. The iron oxide is the reddish-brown substance that we refer to as rust. Rusting on our vehicles occurs when the metal parts are exposed to elements such as salt or water resulting in a chemical breakdown.
Why You Need a Rust Inhibitor
A vehicle is a huge investment. Just like most items used on a daily basis, sooner or later your car will start to exhibit signs of wear and tear. One of them is corrosion due to road salt and moisture. If ignored, damage due to corrosion will only spread to other parts of the vehicle leading to serious damages. You can avoid such a situation by having your car rust-proofed via any of the above methods at least once in a year.
The Renault has a separate chassis which includes the floor pan.
Replacing the chassis is a very time consuming job, and in any case, replacement chassis are no longer available. It’s important to ensure any Renault you buy has a good chassis.
The Achilles heel of the Renault is at the rear where the rear suspension bolts on. The photograph shows the RHS rear suspension with rust in the double skinned section just to the rear of the inner suspension mounting.
THe rust will be obscured by the damper and is only visible from underneath the car (I’ve removed the body for the photograph).
A patch repair for maybe £200 would get the car through an MOT, but there’s not much point as rust would return the following year, and the area behind the mounting would still be rusty.
A good repair would involve removing the rear suspension, the fuel tank and half of the interior.
Some time ago rust in this area would have been enough to send the car to a scrapyard. These days Renospeed (the Renault specialist in London) can make a lasting repair for around £600, which is worthwhile, as the repair would probably increase the value of a reasonably tidy car by the same amount.
It’s much rarer to find rust in the outer suspension mountings, but unfortunately that area is more tricky to repair with the body still in place. Really cars with severe rust in this area would only be suitable for spares or DIY restoration.
Rust in the outer rear suspension mount tends to start from the top and rust in the wheel arch immediately above the mounting is a clue to the mounting condition. This one is pretty bad.
WIth the body removed it’s easy to see where the outer mounting can rust. The top of this mounting has completely disintegrated.
Another indication of rust in the rear chassis is the condition of the body just inside the rear door. This one has been patch repaired, so the chassis underneath is likely to be holed.
This one has been patched already but to a low quality. Replacement floor sections are still available for a long term repair.
The body isn’t stress bearing – it’s cosmetic so all you really have to do for an MOT is cover the jagged rusty bits with tape. The seatbelt mountings in the rear wheel arch are a different issue.
Issues at the front of the car are wings and bonnet. The wings will rust on the top and front edges, but can be replaced for £30 each.
The front wings also rust at the front where mud can be trapped.
The original rear wings were seam sealed from the inside of the wheel arch, but most people don’t bother when they replace the wings, and mud collecting on the top of the rear wing mounting flange will rot the body.
The 1108cc engine in the GTL is very strong, but doesn’t seem to be completely comfortable with unleaded fuel – fast motorway driving can sometimes burn an exhaust valve. It’s sensible to use star replacement petrol or a valve protecting additive for long motorway journeys.
There is not a lot of interior to go wrong in a Renault 4, but it’s sensible to buy a car with a decent interior.
Earlier cars had vinyl covered seats which are much harder wearing.
Replacements aren’t available but they can be recovered by trim specialists.
The Renault makes an inexpensive restoration project for anyone with welding skills. The mechanical parts will rarely need to be rebuilt. For anyone not experienced in welding it’s a good idea to buy the best car available. Welding is time consuming and tends to be expensive. Very few restored cars come onto the market, but good, low mileage original cars do appear from time to time.
VHT SP22Rust Convertor Can
The best thing about this product is that with the right coating (over the whole surface and thoroughly), you can (at least in theory, but also in practice) eliminate rust completely and for a very long time because it keeps converting it. Just make sure that there is not a lot of moisture around when you are applying it.
PlastiKote 62Rust Converter
After application, you can expect to work well for weeks. That is why it is definitely worth to try a product like that. Furthermore, it is a water based product, so it will be very safe for your car or other metal surface areas. It also does not harm the painting.
Rust Converter and Primer
The product itself comes with instructions of how to use it. You even have youtube videos to make the whole application simpler and more effective. The best thing is that it also does not contain dangerous chemicals so it is safe to use it also on fragile surfaces with a lot of paint.
Rust-Oleum Automotive 248658
All in all, this is great rust converter for different vehicles. It saves you the effort of actually scrubbing the rust all the way down to the metal. It is a huge time saver.
Method of application
There are many types of rust remover w.r.t method of application. Some are painted, some are sprayed while others are poured on the affected area.
Time to remove rust
This is the most important factor one should keep in mind while buying rust remover. Always check how much time this rust remover would take to remove the rust. The range for them to remove rust varies from 30 seconds to 2hours.
Stain Removal Video Instructions
Here are proven granite stain removal directions that consistently restore your stone countertops back to their original natural beauty. This guide includes removing stains from granite, marble, and limestone.
To prevent a granite stain from becoming an issue in the first place, simple granite care and maintenance is required. See How to Clean Granite Countertops.
Often water stains are rings of granite sealer (especially on black granite). You get rid of them by removing the sealer with denatured alcohol. Simply spray it on and rub in circles with a clean cloth, frequently changing the area of the cloth you are using.
Scratches and Nicks. Surface scratches may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks should be repaired and re-polished by a professional.
Poultice materials include kaolin, fuller’s earth, whiting, diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding plaster or talc. Approximately one pound of prepared poultice material will cover one square foot. Do not use whiting or iron-type clays such as fuller’s earth with acid chemicals.
Applying the Poultice
Prepare the poultice. If using powder, mix the cleaning agent or chemical to a thick paste the consistency of peanut butter. If using paper, soak in the chemical and let drain. Don’t let the liquid drip. Wet the stained area with distilled water. Apply the poultice to the stained area about ¼ to ½ inch thick and extend the poultice beyond the stained area by about one inch. Use a wood or plastic scraper to spread the poultice evenly. Cover the poultice with plastic and tape the edges to seal it. Allow the poultice to dry for about 2to 4hours.
The drying process is what pulls the stain out of the stone and into the poultice material. After about 2hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to dry. Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. Use the wood or plastic scraper if necessary to lift the poultice off the stain. Repeat the poultice application if the stain is not removed. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.
Care of granite countertops is simple and not time consuming. Chances are granite stains will never be a problem and your tops will look great year after year.
If you have cleaned your granite tops with dish soap, you can remove the soap film buildup with MB-Soap Film Remover. Simply dilute MB-with water and wash away soap buildup. This will return the shine to your granite tops.
See Granite Countertop Repair for tips and resources to fix damaged and chipped tops.
See Granite Sealers for sealing granite.
This is another rust remover that is safe not only for you, but for the environment as well. By taking a look at the list of the ingredients, you will be happy to know that none of them is toxic. This won’t be a threat for your health and the environment in any way.
The best thing about this product is that it does not only remove rust. It has a special formulation, which allows a protective layer on the surface of whatever treated. This will prevent rust from returning.
It comes with the revolutionary Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor, or also known as VCI. The latter allows the rust remover to have electrochemical bonding with the metal. This will help in getting rid of moisture and air that can prevent rusting.
Doesn’t require scrubbing to remove rust
Looking for the easiest-to-apply, fastest drying rust converter? That would be the Rust Converter ULTRA.
The Rust Converter ULTRA is one of the newest surface conditioners and you’ll be amazed at how excellently it converts rust. It easily and quickly changes rust into a black protective coating that prevents further rusting.
The existing rust becomes inert and seals out water to safeguard your metal items from future corrosion.
Looking to paint the object after applying the rust converter? Great! Go for the Rust Converter ULTRA.
This rust converter offers the perfect primer coating for an oil-based paint application. Subsequently, the object is able to efficiently resist the effects of harsh weather. You no longer have to worry about peeling and cracking.
Rust converters are normally a moderately thin liquid. Therefore, you can apply them as a spray or with a brush.
Some expensive varieties are available in aerosol form, allowing you to apply a uniform coating. Such varieties allow you to save on the usage by minimizing wastage.
Different varieties will hold onto the metal object differently; this affects the application method. A thinner brand will spray easier, while a thicker one will stick better when applied with a brush.
If you’re looking to apply the converter on a long pore, it’s better to get one that you can spray rather than one that requires painting.
There’s something else you need to keep in mind – thinner converters will drip if you apply too much. Furthermore, they’ll need more coats especially if the metal is very corroded.
A thicker brand, on the other hand, adheres to the surface better and runs less risk of dripping. Also, it typically requires fewer coats.
You normally have to allow the rust converter around 20 to 4hours. Nonetheless, this depends on the brands formula. Some brands will take less time while others will take more.
If you live in the warm climates, you will not have any problem letting the application dry.
However, if you live in a humid area, like the Pacific Northwest, you might have to wait for several days before the application dries. In this case, you ought to get a brand that particularly dries fast.
Saves money on repairs
If you have had to pay for repairs, then I suppose you know how costly that can be.
Now, by using a good rust converter, you reduce the bending and wearing on such items. That means that you won’t need the repair guys as often as before, and thus you you’ll get to keep the cash you’d have spent.
How to Use a Rust Converter
Ever used a rust removing chemical? Well, rust converters are quite different. They don’t remove the rust; they convert it into a black layer that stops the rusting process.
To apply the rust converter, all you have to do is follow these easy steps.
The Marble Institute of America recommends using kaolin, fuller’s earth, whiting, diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding plaster, talc, white cotton balls, and white paper towels.
Liquid Solvent Recommendations
Think about what objects are typically used near the area of the stain. For example, coffee stains will show up on a marble kitchen countertop near the coffee maker; or rust stains will show up near metal decorations and a water source.
Rust stains are probably the most difficult of marble stains to remove. They typically come in the shape of the metallic object that left the stain and are typically in the color of copper to brown.
Make the Poultice
When finished the Marble Poultice should be the consistency of peanut butter or cake icing.
Remove the Poultice
Remove the masking tape and plastic wrap. Then dampen the poultice by adding about ¼ of a cup of water over the poultice. Remove the poultice with a plastic or wooden spatula. Then clean the surface with warm water and dry completely.
Soft-bristled brushes for your bike
Soft-bristled brushes are useful for removing softened mud and road grime, while ones with stiffer bristles should make easier work of lifting stubborn dirt.
Choose a kit that contains brushes of varying shapes and bristle stiffness. A large, soft-bristled brush or sponge is good for the frame and wheels, and a cone-shaped brush is better for hard-to-reach areas.
A toothbrush-type brush with stiff curved bristles can be used for cassettes and mechs, and you’ll also want a brush to use when applying degreasers.
Degreasers break down grease and grime without brute force, and are ideal for getting the built up greasy crud off your drivetrain and cassette. There are eco-friendly options available too, such as the Weldtite Pure degreaser shown above.
Degreaser is used to clean your chain and other moving parts. Keeping the drivechain clean is vital. If ignored, dirt will speed up wear throughout the transmission, impact on shifting performance and reduce efficiency. It’s possible to get really vicious with removing every molecule of muck from a chain by dunking it in petrol, although that risks removing all the lubrication from inside the rollers and pins.
A chain cleaning sponge (essentially a sponge with a groove cut into the top) makes cleaning a chain easy — just grab the chain in the sponge’s groove and turn the cranks. There are also lots of drivetrain-specific brushes available for cleaning chainrings, cassettes and chains.
Protect your bike with a Teflon polish
Once your bike is free from dirt, the last job is to add a protective polish to the frame and components. Sprays that contain a moisture dispersant and PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene, which is what Teflon is), are good choices.
The dispersant expels water from the bike, protecting it against corrosion, while the PTFE creates a shiny finish where applied. The advantage of using a product such as this is that dirt finds it harder to stick to the PTFE, making your bike easier to clean next time round.
Ways To Protect Guns From Rust
This includes methods that one can carry out to reduce the metal part surface of the gun from reacting with oxygen to form rust. when these methods are taken seriously one will not go through strenuous methods to remove rusts from guns.
Larger fire pits can hold more wood, therefore creating a bigger fire, but do you have the means to accommodate this bigger size? If you intend on moving your fire pit often, it might not be the best option. Think carefully before purchasing a fire pit over feet wide because when it comes down to it, fire pits are supposed to be enjoyable, not a hassle.
Perhaps the most important element when deciding on your perfect fire pit is the material used to construct it. The materials not only equate to durability; they also create a certain style. Depending on your needs and your style preference, the prominent component of your fire pit will have a huge impact.
Tile & Stone
Usually available gas-fuel and occasionally wood-burning, tile and stone fire pits are typically very unique and artistic. They are made with a solid steel frame and mesh body, with tiles, rocks or bricks then applied to the mesh body using standard masonry procedures. These rock fire pits are generally very heavy so frequent movement is not recommended.
Cast Iron is one of the most common materials used in construction and fire pits are no different. Cast iron is inexpensive, easy to work with and light enough to move around when needed. Cast iron is not as strong as wrought iron nor as heavy, but to some the lightweight nature of cast iron is desirable.
Stainless Steel fire pits come with all the great features of stainless steel, including a rust-free, durable material that will stay looking great for years. Many people like the industrial look of stainless steel, as well the functionality. Unfortunately, stainless steel fire pits are rare and only come in very few styles due to their expensive price.
When choosing the perfect fire pit, you also want to consider what you want to use the fire pit for. Do you just want to enjoy an outdoor fire or do you also want to use it to cook food? Maybe you just want it to act as furniture or decor in your outdoor space? Today, there are fire pits to accommodate anything you may want.
Grilling is as American as apple pie and having a fire pit that can double as a grill is extremely efficient. Many people also think that food prepared over an open flame is more delicious as well! Many of Serenity Health’s fire pits come with a cooking grate, but you can also buy a grate to fit fire pits that don’t already come with one.
Whether you’re purchasing a toaster or a TV, brands are part of your decision process. Although brand name fire pits are often less known than Sony or Toshiba, there are some definite differences between manufacturers that consumers should know.
Identify the issue
The first step to any rust repair DIY job is to identify the problem. Rust will start under the paint of your car hidden out of sight, but eventually bubbles to the surface looking like cauliflower under the paint. Car rust repair begins with a thorough inspection of the area to see if it has spread along a panel or is in one small area.
Rust normally starts where dirt gets trapped in an area over time, traps moisture, and then eats the metal away. When you wash your car, make sure to clean behind the fuel filler, clean around the inside of the boot (trunk) and bonnet (hood), behind the bumpers, around the front and rear windscreens, wipe under the doors, and inside the wheel arches, as these are all common areas to find rust.
How to remove rust from metal
You can clean the paint off using sandpaper or a wire cup on a drill, which allows you to see how much rust is hiding under the paint. For a good car rust repair you need full rust removal; if you don’t remove rust from metal it will just keep eating away.
You should fix rust in a garage with good ventilation as you need to be out of the weather to prevent contamination to the repair, but keep ventilation up when working with paints and chemicals.
How to fix small rust spots on car
If the metal hasn’t eaten a hole in the metal your repair is simple.
Clean the area thoroughly and brush on a good automotive rust convertor to the affected area like Oxytech’s Anti-Ox. This eats the oxidisation, stopping the chemical rusting process.
Mix up a small amount of body filler with the supplied hardener, until it turns light pink. Spread the filler evenly in a thin layer across the section and leave it two hours.
Once dried sand it with 400-grit paper, feathering the edges to blend into your existing paint job. Mask the area around the repair using tape and clear plastic, and spray primer over the top using short, dusty strokes to build the level of primer up gradually.
Lightly sand the dried repair with 400-grit, then lay down two coats of colour. Again, use light, fluid sideways motions to prevent runs.
Be careful with bristle brushes, especially cheap brass bristle brushes. Bristles fall out. Every year there are scores of sad news stories about people eating meals with bristles hiding on them. The bristle gets stuck in their throats or digestive systems, and repairs can get pretty ugly. Every so often someone dies. Here’s an article on the subject from the Center for Disease Control documenting six (!) cases in Providence, RI, in one hospital system in 1months! The X-rays here are from that article. Think I’m making a big deal out of nothing? Google “grill brush wire stuck throat”.
So be sure to look your cooking surface over after brushing or give it a quick wipe with a damp cloth. I’ve even had readers tell me they run a half an onion or lemon over the grates after brushing. Make sure you have a good bright light pointed at your cooking surface. I have included some wire bristle brushes below that I have used that do not shed. But as soon as one bristle comes loose, others will surely follow, so if you see a brush losing bristles, please discard it immediately.
Tool Wizard BBQ Brush.
This device uses a woven stainless steel pad that does a great job of cleaning the grates. At first. It sounds great in theory, and it gets good reviews from others who haven’t really used it, but performance is another thing. In theory the scrubber can be removed and run through the dishwasher, but if it is greasy, it can really slime the dishwasher and anything in there. When the scrubber gets disgusting and starts falling apart you can buy replacements, but they are not cheap, and they break down quickly. Before long it begins to slide side to side and unravel. You have to be careful, because when it starts to disintegrate, the woven steel can fall off onto the grill and could get into your food.
T-Brush. This is a large brass-wire brush that used to be one of my faves until it started shedding bristles. The bristles are not glued in, they are held in by twists in a metal bar connected to the handle. Once one or two fall out, the rest come loose more easily. It is very rare, but there have been choking incidents when bristles on the grate got onto food and were ingested.
Scrub & Spray Brushes. These look great on paper. There are replaceable stainless steel brushes and you can drip water while you scrub creating steam. Alas, in practice, I was unimpressed. You have to fill it with water, open a small spigot, scrub, and close the spigot. I didn’t think the steam made that much of a difference. I get better results with a simple brush dipped in water. And in winter the water freezes unless you empty it after each use or store it in the house, and nobody wants a greasy grill brush in the house. Besides, I’m always wary of replaceable brush scrubbers. Last time I bought one, at a premium price, the company went out of business within six months.
Blasting Media should be matched to the material you will be working on. Sand is good for steel and cast iron but plastic media will provided better results on soft metals and fiberglass.
Protective Clothing is a must not specifically because the high pressure sand coming out will come in contact with you but a protective hood or very good tight sealing goggles are necessary to protect your eyes and long sleeves and a taped or closed neck line will definitely be a needed if you are not working in an enclosure. You will basically be working in a miniature sand storm.
Plastic Media is often used on Plastics and Fiberglass and sometimes soft Aluminum.
Glass Bead is used to prep engine parts without causing damage.
Walnut Shells are a favorite of Classic Car Restorers because it performs the paint and rust removal without eating into the metal.
Aluminum Oxide was long used for coating Sandpaper and is now available by the bucket for blasting.Play or Bagged Sand This is one of the most common products used for sandblasting but it does require some preparation and screening.
Points of Note
You cannot buy a UK Spec car with Auto-They never made any.
There are no Twin Turbo Auto’s. If you find one it can only be a converted N/A. This is not good, as the gearbox cannot handle the power.
Some people fit extra oil coolers to the gearbox. Good idea. This will help preserve the life of the box, as heat is the killer of Auto boxes.
Don’t forget that these vehicles are fitted with wheel steer,active from 3m.p.h. and permanent wheel drive, oversteer is very easy until you get used to the set up! Don’t be content with a five minute blast down the bypass, tell the owner that you would like to go for a decent drive incorporating different road layouts. This way you will get a better impression of how the whole unit is working, I’m not encouraging you to break any speed limits so that part of the test is up to you and the owner. You can check the handling and how it sits on the road, check the brakes and that they pull up firmly and evenly. Brake judder may be as simple as a bit of wheel balancing required, but it could also be down to worn or damaged brake or suspension components.
Keep an eye on the following, oil pressure, engine temperature and the boost gauge. DO NOT observe the fuel gauge as this may deter you from ever buying a GTO.
In the rear view mirror you will be able to see the rear aero and when it’s working, if there is a fault with this system an “ aero” light will illuminate in the bottom right hand side of the instrument panel. As with testing any motor check the clutch action, the difference here is a few hundred pounds more for the replacement! Drive off slowly whilst listening for any rattles or vibrations from the engine and gear box area. The transmission on the five speed earlier models is not as strong as the later six speed versions so check it out thoroughly and make sure that all gear changes up and down the box are smooth in action, not notchy.
With a bit of heavy right foot acceleration should be responsive and rather rapid, if there is any lack of response here it may be down to one of several reasons but turbo problems may be the cause. If you are careful with standing starts the life of the gearbox will be lengthened, when the car has momentum then cane it if you have to, but constant booting it from zero will eventually wreck the output splines on the transmission. On completion of a test drive and for future ownership, allow the engine to idle for a couple of minutes, this is to allow the turbos’ to come back to nominal engine pressure. They run at extremely high speeds and if the engine is cut straight away it will stop oil flow to their bearings and lessen their life span. The way around this problem is to fit a turbo timer.
The most common causes of rust are
Unfortunately, nowhere in the UK ever stays completely rain-free for long. Leaving your car outside in heavy rain, or regularly driving through puddles, increases the chances of rust developing. In particular, water has a habit of gathering in certain areas like the rear tyres, wheel wells and wings. If not dried properly (either by a period of dry, warm weather or through parking the vehicle in a garage for a few days), these areas can become particularly prone to rusting.
Poor weather conditions and exposure to the elements
As we’ve established, prolonged periods of torrential rain make your car more susceptible to corrosion. Snow has a similar impact if it hasn’t been cleared properly. Hot, humid air will also attack any exposed metal on your car.
If you leave your car outside and live on the coast, you can expect rust to pose more of a problem than if you lived further inland. Salty sea water has a knack of finding its way to even the tiniest patches of unprotected pieces of metal. Salt water will cause an object prone to rusting in normal conditions to deteriorate considerably quicker. Furthermore, if your car is left somewhere particularly rural and very open to the elements, you are likely to find you have a bigger problem with rust than those in urban and sheltered areas.
Many of the factors listed above are unavoidable if you live in certain areas of the country and don’t have the luxury of owning a garage. However, failing to take steps to prevent damage, or failing to act upon the early signs of rusting, will only make the situation worse.
Even simply washing your car on a regular basis, particularly in poor weather conditions, can go a long way to prolong the life of your vehicle. It may seem counter-intuitive (after all, we’ve established that water helps rust form) but washing your car helps get rid of all the dirt, salt and grime that has built up. The important thing is to make sure it dries nice and quickly.
The way you drive
Do you drive too close to other vehicles? Lorries, vans and cars all cause small stones and pebbles to fly up and hit your car, causing those problematic little scratches.
Wash your car regularly
Keep the body and underside of your vehicle clean of dirt, grime, grit and salts by washing it regularly, particularly during periods of bad weather. Pay particular attention to any pockets where water can build up, such as around the wheels.
Tackle any small rust spots early
As soon as you notice any rust developing, no matter how small, remove it, apply an anti-rust primer and repaint it. This relatively small maintenance job will save you time and money in the long run. Rust is an extremely widespread problem, and it doesn’t take long to spread to other parts of your vehicle.
How to treat rust
If you’ve spotted very small patches of red dust around a superficial scratch, before any paint bubbling has occurred, repair is fairly simple. Whenever you spot a small patch of rust, don’t delay in treating it – leaving it will only give it the opportunity to spread and cause much more damage.
Touch-up car paint
The process of repairing surface rust, when the paint has started bubbling or even flaking off, is much the same as above, but you’ll need something a bit sturdier than dry sandpaper. Try an abrasive wheel for moderate damage, or even a wire brush and grinding wheel to knock any roughness into shape, then use sandpaper to smooth the area. Then, follow the same process as above with anti-rust primer and car paint.
The TJ was offered with three engines: the 4.0L inline-six, the 2.5L four-cylinder (’97-’02) and the DOHC 2.4L four-cylinder (’03-’06). Having owned both four- and six-cylinder models, we highly recommend opting for the six-cylinder engine. Power numbers come in at 120 hp with 140 lb-ft of torque for the 2.5L, 14hp with 16lb-ft of torque for the 2.4L, and for the 4.0L engines, 18hp with 22lb-ft of torque (’97-’99) and 190 hp with 23lb-ft (’00-’06). The four-poppers will save you money on the purchase price, but they just don’t have the gusto the 4.0L has.
Please note: the four-cylinders are not bad engines. They are actually very reliable. The trouble is they don’t have enough power once you start adding on layers of aftermarket parts and oversized tires. The four-cylinder engines were also paired with the smaller and weaker manual transmissions. Also, if you’re thinking that maybe you can just swap in a 4.0L later down the road, understand that you will have just as much time and money in the conversion as if you were installing a V8.
Now that we agree that you are not getting a four-cylinder Jeep, let’s examine some of the spots you need to look at on the 4.0L engine.
These engines are known to leak oil, but they don’t have to! The most common culprits are the valve cover gasket and rear main seal. Thankfully, the 4.0L has a two-piece rear main seal. This means you can swap it out without removing the transmission.
Another trouble spot, which is more common on the ’97-’00 models, is a cracked exhaust manifold. You might not be able to see it, but you should be able to hear it. A cracked exhaust manifold can create a host of other problems, so it’s not something that can be ignored. Replacing the manifold is a straight-forward, but time intensive job. Be sure to keep that in mind when negotiating.
Opting for a manual over an automatic transmission often comes down to what you are comfortable driving.
For those who enjoy rowing gears, you will have three options of manuals depending on the year of the TJ. Until the year 2000, the AX-1five-speed was standard issue. It was ultimately replaced with the stronger NV3550 five-speed unit until late 200That’s when we see the six-speed NSG370 make an appearance. Of the bunch, the AX-1is one of the most problematic in regards to synchronizer issues, but we wouldn’t let that keep us from purchasing one TJ over another.
If you want to go with an automatic, you will have a 32RH three-speed in the ’97-’0six-cylinder TJs. These transmissions are very durable, but will cause the Jeep to rev higher on the highway. The ’03-’042RE automatics are four-speed overdrive transmissions that are especially heat sensitive, but do a better job of keeping the rpms more manageable on the road. Differential gearing is extremely important when it comes to keeping both the manual and automatic transmissions alive. Just remember, as the tire size increases, so should the numerical ratio of the differential gears.
As we mentioned earlier, the Rubicon comes with Dana 4axles front and rear. For all other TJ Wranglers, the front axle will be a low-pinion Dana 30. This axle works fine in a stock TJ, and is strong enough to handle up to a 35-inch-tall tire.
The common issues with the front axle include a leaky pinion seal and bad Universal joints in the axleshafts. Out back, you either have a Dana 4or a Dana 3The Dana 3(shown above) is junk… and that’s putting it nicely. We barely trust the problematic c-clip axle in stock form. If you are having trouble finding a TJ with a Dana 4rear, worry not: the aftermarket is full of bolt-in axle upgrades. Just plan on spending a couple grand to get a proper rear axle.
Rust & Suspension
We don’t care how nice the body appears, crawl under the Jeep and look closely for rust. Check the inside and outside of the framerails. If the Jeep has carpet, pull it up and look underneath (especially in the front floorboard area). A little surface rust here and there isn’t uncommon, but a large amount will only lead to more problems.
If the Jeep looks like it’s been off-road, examine the control arms carefully. You’re looking for bent arms and blown bushings. You can purchase an entire suspension kit on the cheap these days, so don’t worry if the arms look past their prime.
The Unlimited Equation
One other consideration when looking at a TJ is the ’03-’0Unlimited version. These are often referred to as LJs. You not only get extra interior space with the Unlimited, but a 103.5-inch wheelbase, which makes for better handling and performance on and off-road. Given they only made the LJs for three years, they will be a bit more expensive over a TJ. A Rubicon edition was offered in ’0and ’0for those looking for an even more capable out-of-the-box setup.
Farm Jeep Rehash: The Total TJ Transformation
We often think of rust (a.k.a. iron oxide) as primarily affecting iron alloys that are subjected to the elements, particularly oxygen and water. Car frames, sheet metal, and metal fixtures on objects such as telephone poles are prime examples of products that reinforce the view.
If this is impossible, and your equipment experiences rust, you have two option for removing the unsightly chemical reaction: using an industrial rust removal solvent or performing manual rust removal.
Solvent Rust Removal
The easiest way to remove rust is applying an industrial rust removal solvent, such as Rust Rip from Ecolink. Applying the solvent to a rusted area causes rust to flow away and leave the underlying metal rust-free. However, this option is best for rust accumulations that haven’t yet caused the metal to pit and allow rust to progress deeper in the structure.
If heavy pitting is present, rust will be removed and the pits left behind. Because pitting paves the way for further corrosion, the only way to restore the metal to its previously non-rusted state is to grind the surface until it is uniformly smooth. In some cases, rust that penetrates deeply makes this impossible. The dimensional stability of the metal has likely suffered, and it should be swapped out with a new product for the sake of safety and performance.
Manual Rust Removal
When rust progresses past the surface layer to a depth that makes rust removal solvent an inefficient option, manual rust removal is the option of choice. Using a special grinding pad or a sandblaster made for treating metal, the accumulation can be removed quickly.
However, you encounter one of the same results of using an industrial solvent: After grinding or sandblasting are finished, the surface is uneven, dipping in the place rust once occupied. Again, regulating the surface by making it uniformly even is a key to preventing further corrosion, preserving appearance, and supporting dimensional stability.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your rust remover wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of rust remover
- №1 — BlackStar Aerosol Rust Converter/1 Aerosol Can
- №2 — Goo Gone Rust Remover – Outdoor and Indoor Metal Rusting Remover- 24 fl oz
- №3 — Evapo-rust 4×1 Gallon Case – The Original Safe Industrial Strength Rust Remover