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Best diesel motor oil 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated March 1, 2020
Best diesel motor oil of 2018
The rating is based on multiple factors: The 3 metrics ‐ Design, Materials, Performance, and other indicators such as: Popularity, Opinions, Brand, Reputation and more. I have a variety of material used in the construction of diesel motor oil including metal, plastic, and glass. Not all diesel motor oil are created equal though. Check them out and decide which one suits you the best to splurge upon.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this diesel motor oil win the first place?
I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days.
Why did this diesel motor oil come in second place?
I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office.
Why did this diesel motor oil take third place?
It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great! This price is appropriate since the product is very well built.
diesel motor oil Buyer’s Guide
The diesel oil you should pick should not cause damage to your engine. Instead, it should provide your engine maximum wear protection to prolong its life.
Choose the diesel engine oil that is multifunctional and the one you can utilize across a number of uses.
Efficiency : It will also be good to consider how the engine oil will help you to promote more efficient fuel consumption.
How to choose a car engine oil
It may seem like a daunting task, but choosing the best car engine oil is straight forward.
Start by checking if it has the starburst symbol which is an indication that the oil is tested and meets the American Petroleum Institute (API) standards. Check for the two letters SL.
Check for its viscosity level that suits the high-temperature deposits.
Check the viscosity level suitable for your car’s normal operating temperature. This should match the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Mobil 12076Synthetic Motor Oil
The product is easy to use and has an advanced synthetic formula. Made in the USA, Mob 5QT 5W30 Sync Oil helps prevent deposits build-up in the engine and ensures long engine life. It has excellent overall lubrication that protects the engine from wear in many driving styles. It has great thermal and oxidation stability to withstand extreme driving conditions. It performs excellently even at the maximum oil change interval due to its enhanced frictional properties. It works well at low temperatures, hence aid in fuel economy and allows for quick cold weather starts.
Mobil 120760 Synthetic
With the Mobil 0W-40, your engine will get exceptional cleaning, performance, and wear protection. The full synthetic engine oil is designed to keep the engine running smoothly in all driving conditions. It works with the latest diesel and gasoline engines to deliver an all-round performance. It provides excellent performance even in demanding driving conditions.
Castrol 0309GTX 5W-30
The Castrol 0309provides superior deposit protection because of its unique Trishield technology. Get maximum protection from thermal and viscosity breakdown. The car engine oil is designed for ultra-low friction, therefore, improving gas mileage. It exceeds API SN, GF-and ILSAC standards.
Castrol 0305GTX Magnatec
This engine oil is created to protect your engine from warm up and high temperatures and significantly reduce engine wear. Its use leaves the engine parts four times smoother for best performance. As the oil drains down, it clings to critical engine parts.
Most owners are well aware of the need for both routine servicing and daily checks of oil, cooling water, water separator in the fuel line and so on. Don’t be tempted to skimp this aspect of maintenance – although we’ve become accustomed to cars that don’t need regular checks in the way they did 30 years ago, this still makes sense for a marine engine.
Look for problems with your diesel engine
No one likes to discover an issue with their boat engine, but if you actively look for issues you stand a good chance of finding them long before they cause the engine to stop working. For instance, a build up of black dust around the alternator or water pump drive belts indicates accelerated belt wear, usually the result of a lack of tension, badly aligned pulleys or rust on the inner faces of the pulley with which the belt engages.
Solve your diesel engine problems: fuel, air, starting, wiring ) this may not be an issue for a weekend cruise on a sailing boat in which the engine may only be used for a few periods of 15-20 minutes to get into port. However, it would certainly be worth checking you have a spare on board, and getting the problem sorted before a long summer cruise.
Listen to your diesel engine
The note of the engine and its exhaust can reveal a lot about the motor’s condition. Does it start more or less instantly on all cylinders, or does one catch with a slow thump-thump-thump before the rest fire up? If so, there’s clearly a problem that needs attending to before the one good cylinder joins the rest in becoming reluctant to start.
Similarly, the note of the exhaust will tell you a lot about the cooling system – there’s a big difference between the sound of a healthy wet exhaust and the dry, hollow tone that’s heard when the cooling water stops flowing properly.
Try to spot trends
This can be more difficult that it sounds as many problems with machinery develop relatively slowly, meaning that we have time to subconsciously adjust to those changes without properly noticing them. This can be the case when, for instance, a three-cylinder engine becomes progressively harder to start from cold. If one of the pre-heat glow plugs fails you won’t notice much difference to starting performance. If a second one subsequently fails, the engine will again become more difficult to start, but if you had already adjusted to the ‘new’ normality of an engine that would not start as readily as it should, you probably won’t notice a great deal of difference. However, it will now be a lot slower to start from cold than the motor was when all three glow plugs were operating and failure of the remaining one could render it very hard to start, especially in cold weather.
Fit an exhaust temperature sensor
If there’s a problem with the supply of cooling water, such as a blocked intake filter, the temperature of the (water cooled) exhaust will rise immediately. This gives an advance warning, just before the engine overheats, thus avoiding the risk of expensive damage to the motor. The exhaust temperature sensor is different in this respect to the engine’s built-in temperature alarm, which only operates once the diesel engine is already overheating.
Look for exhaust smoke
Ideally your engine won’t emit any smoke from the exhaust, but if it does the different possible colours are associated with different messages. What appears to be white smoke may be steam, which will dissipate quickly, except in cold weather, or smoke that will tend to linger. There is always some water vapour present in the exhaust, but an excessive amount of steam could indicate water entering the combustion chamber, due to a blown cylinder head gasket, for instance. White smoke is indicative of unburnt diesel, usually as a result of fuel starvation, lack of compression, incorrect injector pump timing or poor injector spray patterns.
Black smoke indicates partially combusted fuel, and can be the result of any of the above reasons, but is also commonly experienced when the engine is overloaded. Reasons for this can include the wrong size of propeller, fouling on the hull, turbocharger failure, a partially blocked air filter or carbon deposits severely restricting the diameter of the exhaust (water injecting) elbow.
Blue smoke indicates that the engine is burning lubricating oil. This usually indicates internal problems such as excessively worn piston rings, cylinder bores or valve guides.
DIESEL ENGINES PROS
Diesel engines, particularly turbo diesels, provide good fuel economy especially with open road driving – if you do a lot of freeway and highway driving, diesel engines are generally around 20 to 3percent more economical than the equivalent petrol driven car.
DIESEL ENGINE CONS
You don’t get the fuel efficiency benefits if you mostly do city driving or short trips.
If you only do short trips under 10kms every day you risk damage caused by a blocked particulate filter which can be very costly. The particulate filter collects exhaust soot and self-cleans by burning the soot into gas once the engine heats up as you drive.
Diesel fuel isn’t cheaper than petrol like it used to be, which could negate the fuel saving benefit.
Diesel-powered cars usually cost more than petrol-powered versions.
Diesel fuel nozzles are often greasy, which is why some car manufacturers provide a box of latex gloves for filling up.
Keep in mind…
Pro Tip : Check that you’re not voiding your warranty by using the wrong oil. Many newer vehicles require that you use synthetic oil and some synthetics aren’t approved for certain diesel engines.
Ford’s entry into the commercial-van segment continues to build a reputation for being a strong seller and receives a handful of small additions for 201Optional interior equipment includes Bluetooth support for the audio package, D-pillar assist handles, a heavy-duty cargo floor, and a manual parking brake. Exterior options now include extended-length running boards, short-arm power-folding rearview mirrors, and a forged-alloy dual-rear-wheel package. Standard equipment now includes a rearview camera for medium- and high-roof vans, a rear cargo-door exit handle, rear LED lamp switch, high-strength laminated glass (cargo models with sliding door), locking glovebox, rear cargo-door lock cylinder, and both passenger and cargo variants get exposed front lug nuts.
The van that energized the stagnant segment appears to be in for a quiet year in the way of changes, but not for news. A new Sprinter is on the horizon and is slated to be announced in the first six months of 201On the docket for the next generation are more technology, more variants, and the same dependability that helped make Sprinter a central piece of the commercial-van segment. The current Sprinter is available in a wide range of styles and configurations, with three lengths, three roof heights, and several payload options. Maximum towing capacity is 7,500 pounds, and top payload is 5,49pounds, which is available on the Sprinter 3500 with a GVWR of 11,030 pounds. If you prefer to save a few thousand dollars at the expense of a little capability, the 3500 with 4,45pounds of payload capacity and the same towing ability rings in with a 9,990-pound GVWR. Buyers have a single choice for 2018: the 3.0L turbodiesel V-engine that makes 18hp and 32lb-ft of torque at 1,400 rpm.
Ram 1500 EcoDiesel
The ’1Ram 1500 gets a number of small changes, but it keeps all of the things we like, including the 3.0L EcoDiesel V-engine. Additions include the luxurious Limited Tungsten Edition, an appearance upgrade for the Sport model, more tablet-like functionality for the 8.4-inch radio, a remote switch for LED bed lights, standard backup camera on all models, and a Fleet Telematics Module. The 3.0L turbodiesel V-was slapped with a lawsuit that threatened FCA’s ability to sell it, but that litigation has since been resolved, allowing the automaker to continue selling the popular engine.
SUSTINA 0W-50 eneos.us
Eneos SUSTINA keeps engine components cleaner and running longer. SUSTINA is a fully-synthetic premium motor oil created by Nippon Oil utilizing its proprietary W BASE base oil and ZP additive technology. SUSTINA provides up to a 2% improvement in fuel efficiency when compared to currently available fuel conserving API-licensed GF-oil of the same viscosity. SUSTINA engine oil and transmission fluid is created with both performance and ecofriendliness in mind.
Mobil Racing mobil.ca
Mobil Racing 0W-50 fully-synthetic motor oil is specifically-designed to maximize horsepower in a wide range of race engine applications from Nascar to Formula One. Mobil Racing oils are engineered to help race vehicles reach peak performance potential. The formulations utilize low-viscosity synthetic base oils and high levels of anti-wear components to maximize power output without sacrificing engine protection. Exceptional protection in high-RPM operation at temperatures up to 500° F (260° C).
Even though the 6.4L makes use of two EGR coolers (as opposed to one, highly-prone-to-failure unit found on the 6.0L), they still plug up and/or crack.
It’s most common for the horizontally mounted EGR cooler (shown on the bottom) to fail due to it being the first unit exposed to incoming exhaust gases. The horizontal EGR cooler is located above the driver side exhaust manifold.
High-Dollar Fuel Injection System
Unfortunately, the K1doesn’t have nearly the reputation for durability that the Bosch CPdoes, and the 6.4L’s turbochargers have to be pulled in order to access it. Most failures stem from a lack of low-pressure fuel supply via a failing lift pump or a stuck pressure control valve (PCV) or volume control valve (VCV). And since the PCV and VCV aren’t considered “serviceable,” all-out pump replacement is often the only solution.
Cracked up-pipes, the plumbing that links the exhaust manifolds to the turbo, are extremely common on the 6.4L Power Stroke. Specifically, the pipes crack at the bellow (also referred to as the expansion joint or braided wire section).
Due to fuel being used during the regen process (i.e. cleaning of the DPF), the cylinders are often washed down with fuel, with some of it inevitably accumulating in the crankcase.
This is why it’s so common for the 6.4L to gain a gallon of oil or more between oil changes. The extra oil is diesel fuel, and as you can imagine this doesn’t bode well for the main, rod and cam bearings (among other things) that rely on pure engine oil to keep them lubricated.
A major wear point in the 6.4L’s valvetrain lies in the lifters and rocker arms. Specifically, considerable wear occurs at the fulcrum ball of the rocker arms, along with the pressed-in ball on the rocker end of the pushrods.
The reason for the wear stems from a lack of oiling issue, as the only lubrication the rocker arms receive comes by way of the pushrods. Beyond that, the rocker arms are also known to break when subjected to high-rpm scenarios where valve float occurs. Many enthusiasts invest in cryogenically treating the rockers to improve their durability.
Quart – when it comes to synthetic oil, Pennzoil is the name that many people trust. I mean, this brand isn’t the official Ferrari oil supplier if their performance is a bust.
So it is not surprising that they came up with one of the best synthetic oils in the market today. The 550040863-6PK is packed with goodness that will only give your car’s engine the best performance yet.
This is because this product is formulated with PurePlus Technology that enables lower viscosity even if the temperatures are as low as 1degrees. This then reduces the effort of your engine by pumping the oil when the temperatures drop.
In comparison to other brands, the Superior Viscosity Control of this oil performs better especially in extreme severe oxidative conditions. It also protects your engine longer and offers faster flow of oil when temperatures go on extremes.
For our second choice, check out Mobil’s synthetic motor oil, Mobil 94005W-30. If you want something that can be used in diesel powered trucks that uses CD, CF or API oil then this is the product that you need.
For one, Mobil is versatile and can be used in turbocharged vehicles as well as supercharged gasoline. It can also be used in SUVs, trucks as well as other commuter vehicles. This is generally the best choice for vehicles that require a 5W-30 viscosity synthetic oil.
When it comes to protection, this synthetic oil performs really well. It helps in keeping the engine of your car clean and aids in its performance.
The SuperSyn technology is an anti-wear technology that helps in protecting the engine even in the most extreme conditions. The viscosity of this oil is also excellent and is approved for all general motor vehicles.
Castrol 0624EDGE 5W-40 SPT
For our third pick, the Castrol 0624EDGE 5W-40 is formulated specifically to help lessen volatility while keeping the essential parts of the engine well protected so it can operate more efficiently.
It also boasts a 42% rating compared to other synthetic oils when it comes to removing deposits. It also helps protect the engine against other conventional and synthetic blend oils.
Oxidation is lesser with Castrol and as a car owner, you know what damage oxidation can do. It is also compatible with a wide variety of cars and has met the viscosity standards set by companies like Volkswagen, Mercedes, Porsche and many others.
Mobil 969320W-50 V-Twin
If you are looking for a synthetic oil that is designed for motorcycles then this is the product you need. It works well with motorcycles that have transmission lubricant system as well as conventional engines.
It can also be used in bikes that have separate transmission system and engine. This synthetic oil can provide the lubrication your engine needs as it exceeds the API service categories CD, CF, SH and SG. It has also been tested well for its maximum power and acceleration.
As one of the best synthetic oil in the market today, you will find that it can protect the engine well even at high temperatures where other motor oils cannot. It also helps maintain the functionality of your bike even when you are riding at high speeds or simply sitting in traffic.
Because it is designed to withstand all kinds of weather, this oil helps in extending the fuel economy of your motor. It is also distilled well so it can reach its maximum thermal and oxidation stability.
How do you know if your truck has the upgraded system? The easiest way to know is by looking at the controls. The older controls will have an additional buttons on the panel. One for recirculate and one for A/C. The photo is the new style control in my 199The upgraded system uses a vacuum controlled heater valve while the old system uses an electrical one. This is the valve that controls the flow of hot coolant to the heater cores in the truck. When the airconditioning is on the coolant is shut off. This article shows how to identify the newer valve. This article shows the older electric valve. Another way to know for sure is to pull the HVAC control head out of the dash. The new system is vacuum controled so you will see a bunch of small diameter colored tubes coming out the back.
199is considered by many to be the quintessential year because it has all the improvements that were begun in 199and is the last year before Hummers were equipped with ABS and a new TTtraction control system (which many off-roaders don’t like) that caused the Torsen I differential.to be replaced with a Torsen II. The method for camber adjustment was changed to cams instead of the labor intensive shim system. This truck is quieter then any of the previous Hummers and has the axle ratio that AMG is now using in all the Hummers.
199was a transition year. The NA diesel was dropped. Due to the introduction of ABS and TTThe NTSB mandated that class III trucks have ABS. It was believed that the ABS system wouldn’t work with the Torsen I differential which up to now provided the exceptional traction the Hummer was known for. This is why AMG had to go to electronic traction control (TT4). Because it was the first year for TT4, the system is not as good as the later models. The truck as a whole, it’s creature comforts, sound insulation and interior are perfected. This would be a great year for a mostly on road truck or a good candidate for add-on lockers.
2000 – 200are pretty much the same truck as the 199except for some minor interior changes.The TTis improved. AMG introduced 16.5″ and 17″ aluminum wheels although by 200all 16.5″ wheels were discontinued. These are great on road trucks and once again good candidates for lockers. They did increase the differential bias ratio on the 200trucks which will allow you to BTM them. In 2000 the factory produced 3slantback models which are relatively rare. In 200the factory produced 6burnt orange 10th anniversary model wagons with tan interiors.
2003’s have an Eaton electrical rear locker which goes a long way towards making the truck as good off road as the earlier trucks with the torsen I differentials.
2004’s have a Brand New Interior and an upgraded engine called the ‘Optimizer’ which has more hp. Due to new government smog regulations AMG went to an engine computer built by Caterpillar. Otherwise the engine is the same. Optional Eaton front and rear lockers are available which make this the best stock truck yet. AMG does sell the Eaton lockers to upgrade older models. You also have the option of aftermarket Auburn electronic or an ARB locker. There is a big step between 200and 200as far as noise level and driver comfort goes.
Gas Vs. Diesel
AM General produced H1’s with gas engines in 199and 199All the diesels prior to 199are N/A (naturally aspirated) diesels as opposed to turbo diesels which were introduced in 199The drive train on all of the 9and newer trucks is pretty much the same until 199when they changed the differential ratio. I’ve owned Hummers a 9gas wagon a 9Turbo Diesel wagon and I presently own a 199Turbo Diesel wagon.
The 5.7L (350 cu. in.) TBI (throttle body injection) gas engine installed by AMG is the 199GM LOversion, GM Assembly no. 10205700 with a page list of AMG add/ delete components to facilitate installation in the Hummer. The engine falls into GM’s Medium Duty Truck/ Van gasoline engine classification. When the first gas engine was installed in 19 the transfercase had to be beefed up because the gas engines produced a greater torque spike then the 6.2L and 6.5L N/A diesel engines of the day.
In 199my only choices were gas or N/A diesel. Why did I purchase a gas truck? I didn’t know anything about diesels and wanted something I knew how to work on. Don’t forget, just about all 4wd’s made are gas powered. I felt that I could get fuel anywhere even out on the trail in remote areas where the chance of a diesel truck coming along is about zero. That was true in 199but not true in 200I was recently in Colorado and there were diesel pickups on the trails. The 350 Chevy small block is the most common engine ever built and can be repaired anywhere in the country. If the engine doesn’t last as long as a diesel it can be replaced dirt cheap. There are more add on parts made for this engine than any other engine in existence. Its quieter and starts up with no problem in the coldest weather. The gas truck can be sound insulated much easier then a diesel. The fuel injection system on the gas adjusts the correct mixture at any altitude, while the NA diesel has a tendency to smoke at high altitudes. The turbo diesel runs great at high altitude.
After driving both, there isn’t much difference between the off road performance of a gas vs an N/A diesel. Shortly after I bought my new gas truck I had the opportunity to go to AMG and compare one of their N/A diesel trucks to my gas on their obstacle course. What I found is that each engine has it’s own distinct feel. A gas truck will allow much more compression engine braking then a diesel because of inherent design differences. This made steep descents much easier to control which is very important when wheeling. The diesel engine is harder to stall then a gas engine due to the high torque at low RPM’s a diesel operates at. I took my gas truck to Colorado and Moab Utah a number of times and had no problem going anywhere I wanted. I did observe that the gas and N/A diesels will run out of power climbing steep hills or pulling stuck vehicles in the mountains at high altitude.
The negatives about a gas powered Hummer are: You can only ford through 24″ of water unlike a diesel which can go to 30″ because the diesel starter is waterproof. A gas engine has a high voltage spark ignition that can get wet and stall while the diesel does not. The gas engine produces much more heat that rises up into the cabin. A gas engine produces its power at 2700 RPM so it’s necessary to put your foot down a little more when going over obstacles. The diesel truck achieves it’s peak torque at 1700 rpm. That means that when pulling or climbing at peak torque the diesel truck is moving at just over half of the speed of the gas truck which allows for better control.
My gas truck got about mpg off the road in the Colorado mountains while the more efficient diesel can get – 1mpg. All Hummer H1’s built before 19have one fuel tank. The tank on a gas truck holds 2gallons while the diesel tanks hold 2The gas trucks hold less because the fuel pump is in the tank and there has to be room for vapor expansion. Having a 2gallon tank getting to mpg motivated me to look into installing an auxiliary tank. A couple companies made diesel tanks that fit in the fender well but I discovered that gasoline is much more volatile then diesel fuel so by law you can’t mount a gasoline tank outside the frame rails. In 9AMG added an additional 1gallon tank to all their H1’s. I researched adding the auxiliary tank to my 9but It required changing the exhaust, trailer hitch, cutting the body for the second fuel filler and adding all the electrics to handle tanks. It cost way more money then it was worth so I ended up carrying a gallon jerry can.
After a couple of years of agonizing about fuel capacity, mileage and power I traded up to a 9Turbo Diesel. I had to eat my words. One of the best moves AMG made was to equip the Hummer with a Turbo Diesel. I never owned a diesel vehicle until I got my 9wagon. It’s now my opinion that a 8000 lb truck really needs a turbo diesel. The major difference is gobs of torque at low rpm’s. My 9got 11.in the city and 1on the road going under 6with the air off. The truck hardly uses any fuel when off the road. It just idles along putting out all kinds of torque at 1200 rpm. At high altitudes the turbo runs very clean and puts out power to spare. The TD is much better on the road because of it’s increased power. My 9could maintain 5mph going over Loveland pass in Colorado. My 9gas truck could barely go 40. I got high centered in the mountains and strapped up to an NA diesel. He just plain ran out of power trying to pull me out. His tires weren’t spinning and his truck wasn’t moving, just a lot of black smoke.
It turns out that diesel fuel is pretty easy to find. With all the diesel Semi’s, pickup’s, RV’s and farm equipment, pumps are available everywhere. The diesel doesn’t smell because modern diesels burn clean. The only thing I can say is they are harder to start when it’s cold and it was a lot harder to sound insulate then the gas. All the diesel Hummers come with block heaters so you can plug them in when it gets really cold. I also recommend using Stanadyne performance fuel additive in the winter and occasionally in the summer to clean and lubricate the injector pump.
I now have a 199Turbo Diesel Wagon. The main difference between the 9and 9is the engine. In 199GM made changes to the Turbo Diesel that improved the cooling allowing them to get another 40 ft. lbs of torque. They also geared the diffs a little higher so theoretically you should be getting better mileage on the road. This wasn’t true for me. The 97.5’s and the 98’s are much better sound insulated right from the factory. They have cushioned headliners and monsoon music systems.
The 97.5’s and up come with a much better heater and air conditioner. This is a major consideration because pre 97.HVAC parts have been discontinued. The older systems have a tendency to develop leaky heater cores and were not built to be repaired. You are forced to upgrade to the new system which will cost you between and thousand installed. Of course the new system works great.
The 9has been labeled the best truck AMG has made to date (aside from the new 0Duramax Alpha). After 9the government mandated ABS on all the trucks. This forced Hummer to change to another type of Torsen differential and go to TTfor traction control. While this is another subject the TTis not nearly as good for heavy duty off roading like rock crawling. The TTis great if you use the truck in the snow and on loose rock and soil.
Harbin Automotive Official Blog
Motor oil is a lubricant at its most basic functional level. It coats the moving metal parts of the engine to ensure no direct contact between parts, preserving the overall health and functionality of the engine over time. Oil also serves as a cooling element for the engine, carrying heat from the combustion process away from the engine block. Modern motor oil products can include a wide variety of additives that offer different benefits to engine health. Detergents are used to clean the internal components of an older, high mileage engine. Adding dispersants to the oil can help gather soot from the combustion process, ensuring that it does not stick to the innards of the vehicle and form clots. Dispersants can also gather small metal fragments in the event of repeated metal on metal interactions within the engine. All of this aside, the viscosity of the oil, or its fluidity (thick or thin), is the most important element to consider when buying oil for your car or truck.
The viscosity index is the number or combination of numbers you will find on the front of the product container. Now, there are several different combinations of these numbers and the labeling system can be confusing if you don’t know what the numbers mean. And, purchasing the wrong oil can lead to major problems for your vehicle, like wearing out the bearings on your crankshaft, spinning bearings, bending or throwing rods, and wearing out the drive-train in your cam.
So, let’s imagine we are looking at a bottle with 10W-30 oil. The first number with the accompanying ‘W’ is the viscosity index of the oil in a ‘winter’ setting, or cold weather. The lower this number is the more fluid it will be in extreme cold conditions. The second number is the viscosity index of the oil in hot conditions. The higher this number is the thicker the oil will be in high temperature conditions. However, it must be noted that you should always consult your vehicle’s driver manual before buying any type of oil. There will be a guide that will give the optimal oil for different driving conditions.
There are four basic categories of oil: Premium Conventional, Full Synthetic, Synthetic Blend, and High Mileage. Choosing the right one is important as well.
Premium Conventional oil should only be used in light-duty cars or trucks that were made before synthetic oils became widely used.
Full Synthetic oil is for the sporty types with Turbo engines like Corvettes, Mustangs, Cobras, high performance models of Mercedes and BMW, and so on, vehicles that will be going to the limit, all day, every day.
High Mileage oil will usually have a higher viscosity index to compensate for the wear and tear of engine usage over time. Many high mileage oils will have seal conditioners that seep into the cracks and pores of the seals to restore their shape and increase their flexibility.
Age catches up with all of us, and with these first-gens pushing 30, there are a few things to look out for.
You knew this was coming, but yes, rust is the first thing you should look for when considering a first-gen. You should search in all the usual places – under the carpet, along the aprons, around the lamp openings, across the firewall, and in the bed. Special areas of the truck would be the passenger side, above the windshield, the cab mounts, the frame behind the fuel tank, spring perches, and so on.
The National Auto Auction Association (NAAA) has some rules of thumb regarding rust, which is that any hole measuring a dime or larger must be disclosed, and any thickness of metal with more than 2percent showing corrosion fails inspection. We think the first rule can be a little flexible, as we all know someone who knows how to handle a welder; the second rule, however, is non-negotiable in our eyes.
Get underneath and look for rust. If you need a reference, the National Auto Auction Association has rules of thumb that include: no hole larger than a dime, and no thickness with more than 2percent showing corrosion.
Transmissions for these trucks were either the standard Getrag 360 five-speed manual, or the Chrysler-made Torqueflite A72three-speed automatic. The consensus seems to be that the automatic is an inferior choice to the manual, since it did not have an overdrive gear. Your first purchases for an automatic gearbox should be a fluid and filter change, and then a new torque converter and flexplate to bring new life; for a manual, check for clutch slippage and order an aftermarket clutch if you find it lacking.
We sought advice from a first-gen owner and found Wayne Jones through social media. His 199Dodge Ram had been through a lot to come out the other side looking pretty and performing well, so he had gained some valuable experience in portions of the truck to watch out for, especially where it concerned the transmission.
Trucks with the manual Getrag 360 transmission should be overfilled by a quart to prevent starvation.
Highlights And Upgrades
You’re going to run across many engine bays in varying conditions. Whether dirty or pristine, make sure to look at lines, cables, and wiring as closely as possible.
Depending on your budget, you can get some life out of your truck without breaking the bank. Popular modifications include turning the fuel screw up to its limit, which will result in some free horsepower (between 50 to 70), a cold air intake kit, bigger fuel injectors, and increasing the exhaust pipe size after the downpipe. More costly upgrades involve jumping up to a larger Holset or BorgWarner turbocharger, a new torque converter/clutch, beefier fuel pump, and head studs if you decide to go with nitrous oxide or water-meth injection.
The 5.9-liter Cummins offers some quick, easy upgrades on their own, but also provide for a robust platform to work with when it comes to aftermarket modifications. Injectors, headers, camshafts, and more are all available.
At its core, the 1989-9Dodge Ram with the 5.9-liter Cummins has a lot to offer. For classic looks, the square-body style is unbeatable and can look like a real blast from the past when properly repainted and buffed out. Supporting the aesthetics is one of the strongest drivetrains ever devised, and it will become a project unto itself if you let it happen.
As gasoline prices continue climb and recreational toys grow in size, truck buyers are increasingly drawn to the powerful, long-lasting, and relatively efficient diesel engines offered in heavy-duty, full-size pickups. Currently, only pickups with a gross vehicle weight rating of 8,500 pounds or higher offer both diesel and gas engines. These heavy-duty trucks are commonly referred to as 3/4- or one-ton pickups. Light-duty, or 1/2-ton, pickups have GVWRs from 6,100 to 8,200 pounds, and all are powered by gasoline engines. Jeep offers the lone exception to this full-size pickup diesel dominance with the ’0Liberty SUV, available for the first time with a trail-ready 2.8-liter/160-horse I-with 29lb-ft of torque and EPA mileage rated at 2city/2highway.
Diesels don’t have the same attraction in the U.S. passenger-car market, where they’re just starting to gain showroom momentum following a high-profile but failed effort in the ’80s. The 197and 197gas shortages prompted automakers to offer diesel engines, with their attractive fuel economy numbers, as a way to combat high gas prices. But diesels quickly developed a reputation for being noisy, dirty, smelly, difficult to start in cold weather, and sluggish to drive.
Haunted by the motors’ unrefined past, American mainstream drivers have shunned diesels. Meanwhile, technology has improved in Europe, where some countries boast that diesel-powered cars make up more than 50 percent of 200new-vehicle sales. Currently only Mercedes-Benz and Volkswagen offer diesel-powered cars in the U.S., and those models accounted for fewer than 30,000 total sales through the first eight months of 2004, according to J.D. Power & Associates. Meanwhile, Detroit sold nearly a quarter-million diesel pickup units in the same time period and should clear 400,000 units by year’s end.
The diesel engine’s traditional advantage has been fuel economy. Since EPA estimates are not required on heavy-duty trucks, however, it is difficult to compare actual mileage between gasoline and diesel models over a certain time span. On average, a diesel engine offers 30 percent better mileage than its gasoline counterpart, but that figure can rise to as high as 50 percent under certain conditions such as constant low-speed driving. Since diesel fuel traditionally has been cheaper to refine than gasoline, it historically has been priced lower. This has meant the extra cost of purchasing a diesel-powered vehicle could be recouped in three or four years. However, the diesel-fuel price advantage is moot in today’s volatile, unpredictable oil market, where diesel-fuel prices can be equal to or higher than gasoline in some areas. Also, diesel engines are now more expensive to purchase due to improved technology, increased demand straining supply, and generous cash and finance incentives offered on gas-powered trucks that widen the price gap. The fuel economy and longevity benefits remain true, reducing the overall cost of ownership, but diesels have lost some financial edge.
So why are diesels so popular in heavy-duty pickups if they’re not saving as much money? Torque.
Diesel Myths & Technology
Recent advancements in fuel-injection technology combined with improved engine design have refined diesel operation and efficiency. Many of the enduring myths and annoyances are no longer applicable.
Modern diesel engines are equipped with four valves per cylinder to increase air flow by reducing interference. This configuration also allows engineers to position the fuel injector in the center of the combustion chamber for uniform fuel dispersion within the cylinder. Computers can manage the fuel injectors with such precision that multiple injections of different fuel volumes are made during each power stroke. By introducing a small dose of fuel, called a pilot injection, just a few ten-thousandths of a second before the main shot of fuel, the combustion is “softer” and noise is reduced considerably. A small, third aftershot of fuel can help reduce harmful emissions by lowering combustion temperature. Some engine manufacturers are even looking at fourth and fifth injections to shape the fuel curve and further smooth out the combustion.
Key to programming such delicate fuel events is a common-rail fuel-injection system that supplies fuel at pressures from 2,000 psi up to more than 23,000 psi. Gas engines with electronic fuel injection run at 40 to 60 psi. Older diesels had separate fuel lines from the fuel pump to each injector. The pressure and injection timing were dependent on engine speed, which sometimes led to a fuel-delivery lag at high engine speeds. Today, a common-rail system links all the injectors to a feed line that is independent of engine speed, allowing the engine-management computer to control fuel exactly as programmed by the engineers.
A sophisticated fuel system and advanced turbocharger are just two reasons why diesels are more expensive than gas engines.
Because of the intense cylinder pressures, all diesel components are built to withstand more punishment, and the cooling system is designed to handle extreme temperatures. The high compression ratio requires an extremely strong starter and heavy-duty battery. Manufacturers also know that diesel truck owners drive their vehicles more-J.D. Power and Associates says diesel trucks are driven 2to 3percent more than their gas counterparts-and load them with more weight. Therefore, engine castings are thicker and moving parts such as the crankshaft, pistons, and valves are more robust. All this extra beef means diesels are heavier and more durable, so it’s not uncommon for diesel engines to go 250,000 miles before a rebuild is even considered. On the downside, some maintenance procedures are more expensive. Diesels need about 1quarts of oil, compared to five or six in gas engines, and diesel fuel filters and water separators need close attention. But gas engines have spark plugs and ignition components that need replacement.
Power & Performance
Newer turbo engines are becoming more and more powerful and can often keep up with the performance of petrol vehicles and this is something to consider.
The biggest advantage comes when off road. In a diesel vehicle, you will have plenty of low rev torque. This means when you are crawling over rocks and obstacles it is very difficult to stall. A petrol vehicle will often require much higher revs to maintain momentum up hill and over obstacles.
For sand and beach driving, these differences often fade and both types of vehicles will have similar performance.
Diesel vehicles require far more frequent maintenance than a petrol engined vehicle. Typically diesels should have their oil changed every 5,000 km and an oil filter every 10,000 km. The maintenance and repair of a diesel engine can be costly when things like turbocharger seals start leaking or the diesel fuel pump requires replacing.
The cost of these regular services will eventually outweigh the less frequent petrol services.
When off road, the diesel engine has more parts that can potentially break or break down. A petrol engine requires less spare parts to be carried and can often be repaired enough to get to the nearest service center for a proper fix. That being said, if an alternator breaks down in a fuel injected petrol engine, you won’t make it very far off the battery alone. A diesel will continue running without its alternator no problem.
Diesel is a safer fuel given its lower volatility. For example, petrol can be ignited almost 20m away from an uncapped tank because of its vapour trail. This can be problematic when refueling a vehicle next to a camp fire.
Once again due to the diesel’s design, its exhaust temperature is around 200 degrees Celsius lower than a petrol engine. While in on-road driving this isn’t much of a problem, off-road it has lead to major catastrophes. A typical problem in outback Aussie 4WDriving is the dry spinifex type grass that grows in the middle of tracks. This gets caught up in all areas, especially exhausts, and has been the cause of many fires. Many a 4WD has been lost this way. A diesel is not immune to this problem, but a petrol is at a far higher risk due to its hotter exhaust temperature.
However, while a petrol tends to stall before any damage is done, a diesel will suffer major internal damage if water gets into the air intake. With its 20:compression ratio, only a very small amount of water will cause dramatic failure of a diesel engine. A petrol is not so prone to this as it does not draw in as much air (hence less water) and only has a 9:compression. Thus any water that is drawn in isn’t subjected to as high a compression.
In practise, a diesel engine comes through most water crossings easily where a petrol engine often splutters its way through with intermittent shorting of the electrics. A well prepared petrol engine will minimise this, but not totally eliminate it.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your diesel motor oil wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of diesel motor oil
- №1 — Milesyn SXR 15W40 API CJ-4 Full Synthetic Diesel Motor Oil 5 Gallon Pail
- №2 — Mobil 1 112786 15W-40 Delvac 1300 Super Motor Oil – 1 Gallon
- №3 — Shell ROTELLA T5 15W-40 Synthetic Blend Diesel Engine Oil